Ingredient Encyclopedia

Welcome to the Ingredient Encyclopedia

Discover what’s inside your skincare — from retinol to aloe vera — with clear guides on benefits, uses, and safety.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Ceramides (NP/AP/EOP) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Ceramides are a family of waxy lipid molecules known as sphingolipids. They are composed of a sphingosine base bonded to a fatty acid. In the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin), ceramides make up approximately 50% of the lipid matrix. The specific types—Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, and Ceramide EOP—refer to their chemical configurations. For example, Ceramide NP consists of a Normal fatty acid and a Phytosphingosine base. These lipids are essential for maintaining the skin's lamellar structure, which acts as a semi-permeable barrier. Without them, the "brick and mortar" of the skin fails, leading to Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and increased penetration of environmental irritants.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Copper Peptides (1$C_{14}H_{22}CuN_{6}O_{4}$), specifically GHK-Cu, are among the most biologically sophisticated molecules in dermatology.2 A tripeptide consisting of glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, it has a high affinity for copper, forming a complex that occurs naturally in human plasma.3 It acts as a "signaling molecule" that modulates the expression of a vast array of genes involved in skin remodeling.4 Unlike ingredients that simply provide building blocks, GHK-Cu instructs the skin to "reset" its repair cycles—upregulating collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans while simultaneously stimulating antioxidant enzymes like Superoxide Dismutase.5 Its signature deep blue color is a natural result of the copper ions binding to the peptide chain.6

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Lactobionic Acid (PHA) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Lactobionic Acid (1$C_{12}H_{22}O_{12}$) is a third-generation Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) formed by the oxidation of lactose.2 It is a complex organic acid that differs significantly from traditional AHAs due to its larger molecular weight (approx. 358 g/mol vs. Glycolic Acid's 76 g/mol).3 This size prevents the molecule from rushing into the skin, instead allowing it to exfoliate the surface gently and evenly.4 Beyond resurfacing, Lactobionic Acid is a powerful polyhydroxy bionic acid with eight hydroxyl groups, making it an exceptional humectant that can bind huge amounts of water.5 It also functions as a metal chelator, neutralizing oxidation triggered by iron in the skin, which helps preserve the collagen matrix from environmental degradation.6

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Gluconolactone (PHA) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Gluconolactone ($C_{6}H_{10}O_{6}$) is a naturally occurring Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) produced through the oxidation of glucose. It is structurally unique among exfoliants because of its high density of hydroxyl groups, which confer exceptional humectant properties similar to Glycerin. With a molecular weight of approximately 178 g/mol, it is significantly larger than Glycolic Acid (76 g/mol), resulting in a "controlled entry" into the stratum corneum that minimizes sensory irritation (stinging). Beyond exfoliation, Gluconolactone acts as a chelating agent, trapping heavy metals that can catalyze oxidative damage, and it has been shown in clinical studies to provide a 50% increase in protection against UV radiation-induced redness when compared to traditional AHAs.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Mandelic Acid – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Mandelic Acid ($C_{8}H_{8}O_{3}$) is an aromatic Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) characterized by its significantly larger molecular structure compared to its peers. While Glycolic Acid has two carbons, Mandelic Acid features an eight-carbon aromatic ring. This increased molecular weight (approximately 152 g/mol) is the secret to its "gentle" reputation. It physically cannot travel through the skin's lipid layers as quickly as smaller acids, ensuring that exfoliation remains uniform and surface-level. Furthermore, Mandelic Acid is unique among AHAs for its lipophilic (oil-seeking) nature, allowing it to penetrate oily pores more effectively than Glycolic or Lactic acid, which are strictly hydrophilic.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Glycolic Acid – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Glycolic Acid ($C_{2}H_{4}O_{3}$) is the simplest and smallest Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA). Its molecular weight is approximately 76 g/mol, making it significantly smaller than Lactic (90 g/mol) or Mandelic (152 g/mol) acids. This tiny size allows it to penetrate the skin's surface more deeply and rapidly than any other AHA. Once absorbed, it works by thinning the stratum corneum and stimulating the production of new collagen and glycosaminoglycans in the dermis. Because it is highly hydrophilic (water-loving), it is exceptionally effective at breaking down the ionic bonds—often called "cellular glue"—between keratinocytes, resulting in rapid exfoliation and a signature "glass skin" glow.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Sodium Hyaluronate – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Sodium Hyaluronate is the water-soluble salt form of Hyaluronic Acid ($C_{14}H_{22}NNaO_{11}$). In cosmetic chemistry, it is often preferred over pure Hyaluronic Acid because it is more stable, less prone to oxidation, and has a significantly smaller molecular size. This smaller structure allows it to move past the skin's top layer more easily. As a powerful humectant, it can bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Its primary function is to increase the hydration of the skin's intercellular matrix, which physically "puffs up" the skin, smoothing out dehydration lines and creating a temporary "plumping" effect.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Beta-Glucan – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Beta-Glucan is a high-molecular-weight polysaccharide (a complex carbohydrate) comprised of linked glucose molecules. In skincare, it is typically derived from the cell walls of oats, yeast, or medicinal mushrooms. Unlike many large molecules that sit only on the surface, Beta-Glucan is a "biological response modifier." It works by binding to specific receptors (such as Dectin-1) on macrophages—the "scout" cells of the skin’s immune system. This interaction signals the skin to accelerate repair, quieten inflammatory cytokines, and stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen. Often cited as being 20% more hydrating than Hyaluronic Acid at the same concentration, Beta-Glucan acts as a "Deep Hydrator," providing both immediate surface plumping and long-term resilience.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Aloe Vera – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice / Gel), the most recognized cooling botanical, functions as a universally trusted hydration-support agent by delivering a complex matrix of Polysaccharides, Amino Acids, and Trace Phenolics. Unlike specialized extracts, it provides a gel-like to lightly viscous sensory profile that offers an immediate "cushiony" cooling response, making it a cornerstone for sensitive, dehydrated, or sun-stressed skin. Typically used at 1–100% depending on the product format, it acts as a reliable routine-buffer that improves the skin’s tolerance to more aggressive actives like retinoids and strong acids. While its soothing relief is felt instantly, consistent application over a 4-week timelinepromotes more stable, calm skin behavior and enhanced comfort perception. Highly compatible with a pH range of 5.0–6.5, Aloe Vera remains a foundational "familiar calm" in modern skincare, though it requires layering with occlusive moisturisers in cold or dry climates to prevent moisture evaporation.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Asiatica (Cica) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Asiatica (widely known as Cica or Gotu Kola) is the "foundational stabilizer" of the botanical world, specifically positioned in modern skincare to provide systemic calm and barrier resilience. Unlike singular actives that target one pathway, Cica works through a complex phytochemical profile—primarily triterpenoids like madecassoside and asiaticoside—to modulate the skin's response to environmental stress and treatment-induced irritation. It functions as a routine insurance policy, smoothing the "reactive spikes" that occur when introducing strong retinoids or acids. By supporting the skin's natural recovery processes without adding occlusive heaviness, Cica creates a neutral baseline, allowing users to remain consistent with their long-term goals. Over a 2 to 12-week timeline, the result is not just a reduction in redness, but a fundamental shift in skin behavior, moving from a state of hyper-reactivity to one of grounded stability.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Retinal (Retinaldehyde) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Retinal, also known as Retinaldehyde, is a powerhouse member of the vitamin A family. In the world of skincare, it occupies a high-efficiency middle ground. While standard Retinol must undergo two conversion steps inside your skin to become active, Retinal is only one step away from becoming Retinoic Acid (the active form your skin actually uses). Think of it like a relay race: Retinol has to pass the baton twice, while Retinal only has to pass it once to reach the finish line. Because it bypasses that first slow step, Retinal is estimated to act up to 11 times faster than traditional retinol. It specifically targets the cellular turnover rate, making it the ideal "next step" for those who want visible results for texture and fine lines without the intensity of a prescription.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Licorice Root (Glabridin) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Licorice Root Extract (specifically Glabridin, 1$C_{20}H_{20}O_{4}$) is an isoflavan found in the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra.2 In cosmetic chemistry, it is categorized as a competitive tyrosinase inhibitor. Unlike hydroquinone, which can be cytotoxic to pigment-producing cells, Glabridin works by binding to the active site of the tyrosinase enzyme—the "engine" of melanin production—effectively slowing it down without damaging the cell. Furthermore, it contains Licochalcone A, which inhibits the NF-kB pathway, a major inflammatory signaling route.3 This dual action makes it a "Signal Modulator": it simultaneously quietens the inflammation that triggers pigment and the enzymes that produce it, making it the premier botanical for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Retinal (Retinaldehyde) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Retinal (1$C_{20}H_{28}O$), also known as Retinaldehyde, is a polyene chromophore and a member of the retinoid family.2 In the hierarchy of Vitamin A derivatives, it occupies a unique position. While Retinol must undergo a two-step oxidation process to become active, Retinal is only one metabolic step away from Retinoic Acid (the form the skin actually uses). it bypasses the first rate-limiting step, Retinal is estimated to be up to 11 times faster in its activity than traditional Retinol, yet it maintains a surprisingly high safety profile.3 It specifically targets the cellular turnover rate in the basal layer of the epidermis, making it the "powerhouse" choice for those who have plateaued with standard over-the-counter retinoids.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Zinc PCA – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Zinc PCA (1$C_{12}H_{22}N_{2}O_{6}Zn$) is the zinc salt of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (L-PCA).2 In dermatological chemistry, it is classified as a sebo-regulator and a physio-sebostatic agent.3 Unlike traditional alcohol-based toners that strip oil from the surface, Zinc PCA works by inhibiting the enzyme 5$\alpha$-reductase, which is responsible for converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT)—the primary hormonal signal that triggers sebum production in the sebaceous glands.4 Because the "PCA" part is a key component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), this molecule provides a unique "hydration-correction" effect: it reduces lipid output while simultaneously reinforcing the moisture-binding capacity of the stratum corneum.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Allantoin – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Allantoin ($C_{4}H_{6}N_{4}O_{3}$) is a heterocyclic organic compound derived from urea. It is naturally found in the comfrey plant (Symphytum officinale), though it is synthesized in lab settings for high-purity skincare. In dermatology, it is recognized as a keratolytic—meaning it helps to soften the protein (keratin) that holds skin cells together. This allows the skin to hold onto water more effectively and shed dead surface cells more smoothly without the "peel" of an acid. Additionally, Allantoin is a documented cell proliferant, stimulating the growth of healthy new tissue. Because it is also a powerful anti-irritant that forms complexes with irritating agents, it acts as a "chemical cushion," neutralizing the sting of more aggressive actives.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Panthenol (1$C_{9}H_{19}NO_{4}$) is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5).2 In biochemistry, it is known as a precursor to Coenzyme A, which is vital for cellular metabolism and the synthesis of fatty acids.3 When applied topically, it is uniquely penetrative; it doesn't just sit on the surface like some humectants but travels deep into the stratum corneum.4 Once absorbed, it converts into pantothenic acid, which stimulates fibroblast proliferation—the process that builds new skin tissue.5 Because it is both a humectant (drawing water in) and an emollient (smoothing the surface), it acts as the "cellular cement" that fills in the cracks of a damaged skin barrier, making it indispensable for rapid recovery.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Urea – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Urea is a unique, dual-action ingredient that serves as a core component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). Its behavior is dictated by concentration: at low levels (2–10%), it acts as a high-performance humectant, binding water to the skin to relieve "tightness" and dehydration; at higher levels (10–40%), it shifts into a keratolytic mode, chemically softening the proteins (keratin) in the skin to break down stubborn, thick buildup like calluses and "bumpy" texture. Unlike aggressive physical scrubs, Urea provides a more uniform smoothing effect while simultaneously supporting barrier health. It is the "gold standard" for treating chronic dryness, cracked heels, and Keratosis Pilaris (KP), provided it is introduced gradually to avoid stinging on compromised skin.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Kojic Acid – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Kojic Acid ($C_{6}H_{6}O_{4}$) is a natural metabolite produced by several species of fungi, particularly Aspergillus oryzae (the same mold used in sake fermentation). In dermatology, it is classified as a potent tyrosinase inhibitor. Unlike AHAs that physically peel the skin, Kojic Acid works chemically by chelation—it binds to the copper ions required by tyrosinase (the enzyme responsible for melanin production). By "locking up" these copper ions, Kojic Acid prevents the enzyme from converting the amino acid tyrosine into pigment. Because it is highly potent even at low concentrations, it is valued for its ability to target the "root" of a dark spot without requiring aggressive surface exfoliation.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Tranexamic Acid – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Tranexamic Acid ($C_{8}H_{15}NO_{2}$) is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine. In dermatology, it is classified as a powerful plasminogen inhibitor. Unlike AHAs which peel away existing pigment, TXA works "upstream" by inhibiting the activation of plasminogen into plasmin. This process effectively interrupts the chemical conversation between keratinocytes (surface skin cells) and melanocytes (pigment-producing cells). By blocking the inflammatory mediators like prostaglandins and arachidonic acid—which are triggered by UV light and acne—TXA prevents the "pigment alarm" from going off in the first place, making it uniquely effective for chronic, recurring discoloration.