Ingredient Encyclopedia

Welcome to the Ingredient Encyclopedia

Discover what’s inside your skincare — from retinol to aloe vera — with clear guides on benefits, uses, and safety.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Phytic Acid – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Phytic Acid is a plant-derived chelating agent and mild exfoliant that stands out for its "smart" approach to skin refinement. Unlike stronger Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) that aggressively dissolve cellular bonds, Phytic Acid works primarily by binding to mineral ions—like copper and iron—on the skin's surface. These minerals can otherwise trigger oxidative stress and contribute to a "filmy," dull complexion. By neutralizing these ions and providing a low-irritation resurfacing effect, Phytic Acid improves light reflection and tone clarity without the typical redness or peeling associated with chemical peels. It is the ideal "bridge" ingredient for sensitive skin types who want the benefits of exfoliation without compromising their barrier.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Hexylresorcinol – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Hexylresorcinol ($C_{12}H_{18}O_{2}$) is a powerful alkylresorcinol that serves as a multi-pathway tone stabilizer. While traditional brighteners often rely on aggressive exfoliation, Hexylresorcinol acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor, directly modulating the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production. Its lipid-soluble nature allows it to integrate seamlessly with the skin’s barrier, providing antioxidant protection and reducing the effects of protein glycation (the "yellowing" of skin) and oxidative stress. Because it is highly effective at concentrations as low as 0.5%, it offers a "precision strike" against hyperpigmentation without the inflammatory rebound often seen with harsher bleaching agents.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Ellagic Acid – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Ellagic Acid ($C_{14}H_{6}O_{8}$) is a naturally occurring polyphenol antioxidant that provides a "barrier-first" approach to skin brightening. Found in high concentrations in pomegranates and berries, it serves a dual purpose: it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor to help regulate melanin production and functions as a powerful scavenger of free radicals. Unlike more aggressive acids, Ellagic Acid doesn’t rely on exfoliating the skin’s surface; instead, it provides an oxidative buffer, neutralizing the environmental stressors (like UV and pollution) that signal the skin to produce excess pigment. This makes it an ideal choice for stabilizing uneven tone and fading post-blemish marks without the risk of "inflammatory rebound."  

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Aloe Vera Leaf Juice – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Aloe Vera Leaf Juice (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice) acts as a functional hydration layer and a "middle-ground" botanical, offering a higher bioactive density than aloe water while remaining more routine-friendly than concentrated extracts. By concentrating water-soluble polysaccharides, it forms a soothing hydration film that reduces the "hot, tight, stressed" sensation common in reactive or over-treated skin. Typically utilized at 1–99% in toners, essences, and gel-creams, it serves as an essential active-buffer, making potent ingredients like retinoids and acids more wearable by reducing perceived irritation signals. While it provides instant cooling relief, its true value lies in supporting routine stability and long-term comfort. To prevent dehydration rebound in dry climates, this water-phase ingredient must be paired with barrier lipids (ceramides) and sealed with a moisturiser. Consistent use over a 4-week timeline results in a more supple, resilient baseline, making it the ideal "comfort backbone" for sensitive and dehydrated skin types.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Licorice Root Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Licorice Root Extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra) is a time-tested botanical powerhouse that has earned its place in modern "calm-brightening" routines.1 Unlike acids that resurface the skin through friction or peeling, Licorice Root utilizes bioactive compounds like Glabridin (2$C_{20}H_{20}O_{4}$) and Liquiritin to inhibit tyrosinase activity at the source.3 It is particularly valued for its dual-action personality: it simultaneously interrupts the pigment-production pathway while providing significant anti-inflammatory benefits.4 This makes it a "precision tool" for fading post-blemish marks and evening out tone in sensitive or reactive skin types that cannot tolerate aggressive chemical exfoliants.5

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Asiatica Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Asiatica Extract (often marketed as Cica) is the "functional cornerstone" of the Centella family, specifically concentrated to provide targeted barrier recovery and active-ingredient buffering. While Centella water offers light hydration, the extract is rich in potent triterpenoids—most notably asiaticoside and madecassoside—which act as biological signal modulators to dampen the skin's inflammatory response. It serves as a routine stabilizer, bridge-building between aggressive treatments (like high-strength retinoids or chemical peels) and the skin's need for recovery. By reinforcing the lipid bilayer and reducing perceived stinging, it allows for a more aggressive treatment schedule without the typical "burnout" or barrier collapse. Over a period of 2 to 6 weeks, it transforms a reactive, unpredictable complexion into one that is grounded and resilient, providing the necessary "quiet" for long-term skin health to flourish.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

N-Acetyl Glucosamine – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
N-Acetyl Glucosamine ($C_{8}H_{15}NO_{6}$), often called NAG, is a skin-identical amino sugar that bridges the gap between hydration and tone correction. Unlike exfoliating acids that dissolve surface bonds, NAG works by modulating the natural desquamation (shedding) process from within and serving as a key precursor for the skin's production of Hyaluronic Acid. Because it is a molecule your body already recognizes, it provides a "low-drama" pathway to smoother texture and increased moisture retention. It is most famous in clinical literature for its synergistic relationship with Niacinamide, where the two work together to interrupt pigment pathways more effectively than either could alone.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Coenzyme Q10 ($C_{59}H_{90}O_{4}$), also known as Ubiquinone, is a fat-soluble, vitamin-like substance found in every cell of the human body. It acts as a vital co-factor in the Electron Transport Chain, the process by which mitochondria generate ATP (cellular energy). In skincare, Q10 serves a dual purpose: it is a potent antioxidant that protects cell membranes from lipid peroxidation, and it acts as a biological "battery pack," providing the energy required for skin cells to repair damage and synthesize collagen. Because natural levels of Q10 peak in childhood and decline significantly after age 30, topical application is essential for maintaining the "bio-energy" needed to resist environmental aging and maintain structural density.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Resveratrol – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Resveratrol ($C_{14}H_{12}O_{3}$) is a potent phytoalexin—a protective antibiotic produced by plants (like red grapes and Japanese Knotweed) in response to environmental stress. In human skin, it is celebrated as a "longevity molecule" because it activates Sirtuins (SIRT1), specialized proteins that help coordinate cellular repair and promote cell survival. By upregulating the Nrf2 pathway, Resveratrol doesn't just neutralize external free radicals; it triggers the skin's own internal antioxidant production. This makes it an elite choice for reducing the "background noise" of chronic low-grade inflammation (often called "inflammaging") that leads to premature sagging and uneven tone.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Ceramides (NP/AP/EOP) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Ceramides are a family of waxy lipid molecules known as sphingolipids. They are composed of a sphingosine base bonded to a fatty acid. In the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin), ceramides make up approximately 50% of the lipid matrix. The specific types—Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, and Ceramide EOP—refer to their chemical configurations. For example, Ceramide NP consists of a Normal fatty acid and a Phytosphingosine base. These lipids are essential for maintaining the skin's lamellar structure, which acts as a semi-permeable barrier. Without them, the "brick and mortar" of the skin fails, leading to Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and increased penetration of environmental irritants.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Copper Peptides (1$C_{14}H_{22}CuN_{6}O_{4}$), specifically GHK-Cu, are among the most biologically sophisticated molecules in dermatology.2 A tripeptide consisting of glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, it has a high affinity for copper, forming a complex that occurs naturally in human plasma.3 It acts as a "signaling molecule" that modulates the expression of a vast array of genes involved in skin remodeling.4 Unlike ingredients that simply provide building blocks, GHK-Cu instructs the skin to "reset" its repair cycles—upregulating collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans while simultaneously stimulating antioxidant enzymes like Superoxide Dismutase.5 Its signature deep blue color is a natural result of the copper ions binding to the peptide chain.6

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Lactobionic Acid (PHA) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Lactobionic Acid (1$C_{12}H_{22}O_{12}$) is a third-generation Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) formed by the oxidation of lactose.2 It is a complex organic acid that differs significantly from traditional AHAs due to its larger molecular weight (approx. 358 g/mol vs. Glycolic Acid's 76 g/mol).3 This size prevents the molecule from rushing into the skin, instead allowing it to exfoliate the surface gently and evenly.4 Beyond resurfacing, Lactobionic Acid is a powerful polyhydroxy bionic acid with eight hydroxyl groups, making it an exceptional humectant that can bind huge amounts of water.5 It also functions as a metal chelator, neutralizing oxidation triggered by iron in the skin, which helps preserve the collagen matrix from environmental degradation.6

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Gluconolactone (PHA) – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Gluconolactone ($C_{6}H_{10}O_{6}$) is a naturally occurring Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) produced through the oxidation of glucose. It is structurally unique among exfoliants because of its high density of hydroxyl groups, which confer exceptional humectant properties similar to Glycerin. With a molecular weight of approximately 178 g/mol, it is significantly larger than Glycolic Acid (76 g/mol), resulting in a "controlled entry" into the stratum corneum that minimizes sensory irritation (stinging). Beyond exfoliation, Gluconolactone acts as a chelating agent, trapping heavy metals that can catalyze oxidative damage, and it has been shown in clinical studies to provide a 50% increase in protection against UV radiation-induced redness when compared to traditional AHAs.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Mandelic Acid – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Mandelic Acid ($C_{8}H_{8}O_{3}$) is an aromatic Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) characterized by its significantly larger molecular structure compared to its peers. While Glycolic Acid has two carbons, Mandelic Acid features an eight-carbon aromatic ring. This increased molecular weight (approximately 152 g/mol) is the secret to its "gentle" reputation. It physically cannot travel through the skin's lipid layers as quickly as smaller acids, ensuring that exfoliation remains uniform and surface-level. Furthermore, Mandelic Acid is unique among AHAs for its lipophilic (oil-seeking) nature, allowing it to penetrate oily pores more effectively than Glycolic or Lactic acid, which are strictly hydrophilic.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Glycolic Acid – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Glycolic Acid ($C_{2}H_{4}O_{3}$) is the simplest and smallest Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA). Its molecular weight is approximately 76 g/mol, making it significantly smaller than Lactic (90 g/mol) or Mandelic (152 g/mol) acids. This tiny size allows it to penetrate the skin's surface more deeply and rapidly than any other AHA. Once absorbed, it works by thinning the stratum corneum and stimulating the production of new collagen and glycosaminoglycans in the dermis. Because it is highly hydrophilic (water-loving), it is exceptionally effective at breaking down the ionic bonds—often called "cellular glue"—between keratinocytes, resulting in rapid exfoliation and a signature "glass skin" glow.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate) is an oil-soluble, stable precursor of Vitamin C ($C_{50}H_{92}O_7$). In the hierarchy of Vitamin C, it is often called the "Deep-Diving Derivative." Unlike water-soluble L-Ascorbic Acid, which often struggles to get past the skin’s natural lipid barrier, THD Ascorbate’s fatty structure allows it to integrate seamlessly into the skin’s oily layers. Once inside, skin enzymes convert it into active Vitamin C. This unique delivery method makes it up to 4x more effective at penetrating the skin than traditional Vitamin C, while maintaining a neutral pH that significantly reduces the risk of surface irritation or "stinging."

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a stable, water-soluble salt form of Vitamin C. While most Vitamin C derivatives focus solely on brightening, SAP is unique for its antimicrobial properties. Research indicates that in concentrations around 5%, SAP can be as effective as some prescription topicals for managing acne-causing bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes). Because it is non-acidic and stable at a pH of 7, it does not cause the stinging or "purging" often associated with pure Ascorbic Acid. It acts as a dual-purpose active: it neutralizes the free radicals that cause premature aging while simultaneously preventing the oxidation of sebum, which is a primary trigger for inflammatory breakouts.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a salt-based, water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. In the hierarchy of skin brighteners, it is known as the "Steady State" option. While pure Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) is notorious for being unstable and irritating due to its high acidity, MAP remains stable at a neutral pH (around 6 to 7). Once absorbed, the skin’s enzymes convert MAP into L-Ascorbic Acid. Because this conversion happens within the skin rather than on the surface, you get the antioxidant and brightening benefits without the stinging, redness, or "metallic" smell associated with traditional Vitamin C serums.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Sodium Hyaluronate – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Sodium Hyaluronate is the water-soluble salt form of Hyaluronic Acid ($C_{14}H_{22}NNaO_{11}$). In cosmetic chemistry, it is often preferred over pure Hyaluronic Acid because it is more stable, less prone to oxidation, and has a significantly smaller molecular size. This smaller structure allows it to move past the skin's top layer more easily. As a powerful humectant, it can bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Its primary function is to increase the hydration of the skin's intercellular matrix, which physically "puffs up" the skin, smoothing out dehydration lines and creating a temporary "plumping" effect.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Beta-Glucan – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Beta-Glucan is a high-molecular-weight polysaccharide (a complex carbohydrate) comprised of linked glucose molecules. In skincare, it is typically derived from the cell walls of oats, yeast, or medicinal mushrooms. Unlike many large molecules that sit only on the surface, Beta-Glucan is a "biological response modifier." It works by binding to specific receptors (such as Dectin-1) on macrophages—the "scout" cells of the skin’s immune system. This interaction signals the skin to accelerate repair, quieten inflammatory cytokines, and stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen. Often cited as being 20% more hydrating than Hyaluronic Acid at the same concentration, Beta-Glucan acts as a "Deep Hydrator," providing both immediate surface plumping and long-term resilience.