Ingredient Encyclopedia

Welcome to the Ingredient Encyclopedia

Discover what’s inside your skincare — from retinol to aloe vera — with clear guides on benefits, uses, and safety.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Licorice Oil – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Licorice Oil serves as a Biological Sealant. Unlike the root extract (which targets pigment) or the leaf juice (which targets immediate hydration), the oil targets Texture Stability. It works by reinforcing the skin's natural "mortar"—the lipids that hold skin cells together. In an era of aggressive "skin cycling," Licorice Oil is the final step that prevents Surface Burnout. By creating a microscopic, breathable film, it allows the skin to repair itself underneath without interference from wind, pollution, or dry air.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Licorice Ferment – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Licorice Ferment serves as a Microbiome Stabilizer. Unlike the root (which targets pigment) or the leaf (which targets immediate surface calm), the ferment targets Metabolic Balance. During fermentation, microbes create specialized fatty acids and antioxidants that mimic the skin’s natural defense chemicals. In a high-performance routine, this translates to a Resilience Anchor—a step that doesn't just soothe on contact, but helps the skin "forget" the stress of the day. For those using heavy-hitting actives like Tretinoin or 20% Vitamin C, Licorice Ferment acts as a sensory insurance policy.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Licorice Flower Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Licorice Flower Extract serves as a Biological Routine Buffer. Unlike the root (which focuses on enzyme inhibition) or the oil (which focuses on the lipid seal), the flower extract focuses on Surface Equilibrium. It targets the "micro-sting" threshold—the point at which wind, heat, or friction turns into visible redness. In an era of high-intensity "skin cycling," this extract provides the necessary baseline calm that allows the skin to remain in a repair state rather than a reactive state.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Licorice Leaf Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Licorice Leaf Extract serves as a Micro-Stress Neutralizer. During the extraction process, the leaf's natural defense chemicals—evolved to protect the plant from sun and pests—are captured to provide a Secondary Antioxidant Layer for the skin. In a high-performance routine, this translates to Environmental Insurance. If you are an active user of L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), the leaf extract acts as a stabilizer, preventing the "pro-oxidative" shift that can sometimes happen when Vitamin C is exposed to heavy pollution.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Licorice Water – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Licorice Water operates on the principle of Aqueous Buffering. In modern skincare, we often use "sharp" actives (Retinols, AHAs, Vitamin C) that can cause a micro-sting on a dry or stressed barrier. Licorice Water rounds off these sharp edges. By applying it as the very first layer, you create a Biological Landing Zone—a reservoir of calm that allows subsequent products to penetrate effectively without triggering the inflammatory "alarm bells" of the skin.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Seed Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Seed Extract (Centella Asiatica Seed Extract) is the "comfort-first stabilizer" of the Cica family, specifically engineered for routines that prioritize barrier harmony and breathable resilience. While leaf extracts and purified triterpenes (like madecassoside) are often used as high-intensity treatment actives, the seed-derived extract offers a softer, buffering action that focuses on reducing the "overstimulated" sensation of reactive skin. Typically used at 0.5–5%, it functions as a biological buffer, helping to neutralize the sting of potent actives like retinoids or L-ascorbic acid without the heavy occlusion of traditional barrier creams. Its primary value lies in its active-friendly positioning; by providing a gentle antioxidant and calming layer, it improves routine compliance, allowing users to maintain the consistency required for long-term results. Over a 6-to-12-week period, this translates into a visibly steadier complexion with fewer "reset days," particularly for those with sensitive skin or those living in fluctuating climates.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Bark Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Bark Extract (Centella Asiatica Bark Extract) is the "structural stabilizer" of the Centella family, specifically positioned for routines that require deep comforting feel and routine resilience. While leaf extracts focus on rapid soothing and seeds offer breathable buffering, bark-derived extracts are often utilized for their light antioxidant supportand ability to anchor a formula's "steadying" effect on the skin. Typically integrated into serums and barrier creams, it functions as a consistency enhancer, helping to reduce the perception of skin "fatigue" caused by environmental stressors or over-active routines. Its primary value lies in its universal compatibility; it creates a low-stimulation environment that allows high-potency actives like Retinol or Niacinamide to perform without triggering defensive reactivity. Over 4-to-8 weeks of consistent use, this contributes to a visibly more "settled" complexion and improved routine tolerance, making it a strategic choice for those seeking a sustainable, long-term approach to skin health.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Leaf Juice – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Leaf Juice (Centella Asiatica Leaf Juice) is the "everyday breathable base" of the Cica family, specifically designed for routines that prioritize cooling hydration and high tolerance. Unlike concentrated extracts or ferments, leaf juice is a water-phase botanical that provides a fresh, "barely-there" sensation, making it ideal for those who find traditional barrier creams too heavy or suffocating. Typically utilized as a primary base in toners, mists, and essences, it functions as a biological primer, neutralizing post-cleansing tightness and preparing the skin's surface for more aggressive treatment steps. Its primary value lies in its active-friendly nature; by providing a gentle antioxidant buffer and immediate cooling comfort, it improves routine harmony, allowing users to remain consistent with potent actives like retinoids or Vitamin C without the common "overstimulated" skin feel. Over a 3-to-6-week period, this translates into steadier skin behavior and a more resilient, calm complexion, particularly in hot, humid climates.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Oil – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Oil (Centella Asiatica Oil) is the "lipid-shield stabilizer" of the Cica family, specifically designed for routines that prioritize moisture retention, barrier comfort, and structural softness. Unlike water-based Centella steps that focus on surface cooling, Centella oil functions as a comfort-seal, typically utilizing carrier oils like squalane or triglycerides to anchor Centella’s soothing properties into the skin's lipid layers. It is a non-negotiable for dry or sensitized-feeling skin, acting as a protective buffer that prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and softens the rough, flaky texture often associated with retinoid use or harsh weather. Its primary value lies in its active-routine synergy; by creating a supple, protected surface environment, it reduces the "dry-tight" threshold, allowing users to remain consistent with high-potency treatments. Over 2-to-4 weeks, this results in a visibly smoother, more radiant complexion and a significantly more resilient barrier feel.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Ferment – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Ferment (Centella Asiatica Ferment Filtrate) is the "refined stabilizer" of the Cica family, engineered for routines that prioritize microbiome-friendly balance and high bioavailability. By subjecting traditional Centella to a controlled fermentation process—often utilizing beneficial microorganisms like Saccharomyces or Lactobacillus—complex plant fibers are broken down into smaller, more usable molecular fractions. This biotransformation typically results in a texture that is significantly lighter and faster-absorbing than standard extracts, making it a "smart" comfort layer for oily and combination skin types. Its primary value lies in its routine-smoothing effect; it functions as a biological buffer that reduces "irritation noise," helping the skin tolerate potent actives like L-Ascorbic Acid or Retinoids more effectively. Over 2 to 6 weeks, this translates into a visibly more "settled" complexion and improved barrier resilience, particularly for those living in high-stress urban environments or humid climates.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Flower Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Flower Extract (Centella Asiatica Flower Extract) is the "breathable stabilizer" of the Cica family,specifically curated for routines that prioritize sensorial lightness and daily antioxidant harmony. While other parts of the plant are often extracted for heavy-duty repair, the flower extract offers a "soft bloom" effect, delivering calming triterpenes and polyphenols in a format that feels weightless on the skin. It functions primarily as a stress-diffuser layer,reducing the "warm-tight" sensation often triggered by hard water, environmental heat, or the introduction of potent actives. For oily and combination skin types—particularly those in humid climates—Centella Flower Extract provides the necessary comfort buffer to maintain routine consistency without the risk of pore-clogging heaviness. Over 2 to 6 weeks,its cumulative impact is a visibly steadier, more resilient barrier that remains calm under the pressure of a multi-step active routine.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Root Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Root Extract (Centella Asiatica Root Extract) serves as the "tolerance anchor" of the Cica family, engineered for routines that require a grounded, structural calm without the weight of traditional oils. While the leaves and flowers provide surface-level freshness, the root extract is often valued for its concentration of triterpenes and essential minerals that support long-term routine stability. It functions as a biological buffer, dampening the "overstimulation" signals—such as warmth, tightness, and stinging—that frequently occur when skin is challenged by high-potency Vitamin C, Retinoids, or Alpha Hydroxy Acids. By providing a predictable, barrier-friendly baseline, Centella Root Extract allows for better active-step adherence; users find they can maintain their treatment schedules more consistently because their skin feels less "on edge." Over 2 to 6 weeks, this results in a complexion that is not only calmer but more resilient to the daily stressors of a complex skincare regimen.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Leaf Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Leaf Extract (Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) is the "daily harmonizer" of the Cica family, specifically utilized for routines that require breathable comfort and consistent barrier stability. Unlike the more concentrated isolated triterpenes found in clinical-grade powders, the leaf extract offers a holistic phytochemical profile—including polyphenols and flavonoids—that excels at soothing the "warm, tight" sensation often associated with over-exfoliation or environmental stress. It functions as a strategic tolerance buffer, smoothing the application of potent actives like L-ascorbic acid or retinoids by lowering the skin's reactivity threshold. This makes it an ideal choice for sensitive or oily/combination skin types that need calming support without the occlusive weight of heavy balms. Over 2 to 6 weeks, the cumulative result is a more predictable complexion and a significant reduction in "routine sting," allowing for long-term adherence to a treatment-focused regimen.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Centella Water – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Centella Water (Centella Asiatica Water) serves as the "breathable base layer" of the Cica family, specifically optimized for routines that prioritize weightless hydration feel and cooling comfort. Unlike concentrated extracts or lipid-heavy oils, Centella water is typically produced through distillation or aqueous infusion, capturing the plant's volatile and water-soluble micro-nutrients in a highly tolerable format. It functions as a stability primer, dampening the "post-cleansing tight" sensation and preparing the skin to receive active treatments without the immediate "shock factor" that can lead to irritation. This makes it an essential tool for those in hot, humid climates or individuals with oily/combination skin who find traditional barrier creams too suffocating. While subtle in its immediate visual impact, Centella water acts as a consistency booster; by improving the sensory experience of a routine, it helps users adhere to their long-term regimen of moisturizer and SPF, which are the true drivers of visible change over 6 to 12 weeks.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Calendula Seed Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Calendula Seed Extract behaves as a Biomimetic emollient. Because seeds are designed to store energy and nutrients for the plant's future, they contain complex lipids that closely resemble the skin's own natural oils. When applied to a compromised barrier (due to over-exfoliation or harsh weather), these lipids fill the microscopic gaps between skin cells, providing an immediate "Flexibility Reset." This prevents the skin from cracking or stinging during the application of more potent actives like Retinol.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Calendula Bark Extract – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Calendula Bark Extract operates as a Sensor Buffer. Most stinging isn't just a sensation; it’s an inflammatory signal that your barrier is failing. Structural extracts like those derived from calendula stems or bark help down-regulate sensory overreaction to everyday triggers like wind, towel friction, or hard water. By including this in your recovery serum, you break the "stop-start" cycle of skincare, allowing you to stay consistent with your routine for the 21+ days required for visible results.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Calendula Leaf Juice – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Calendula Leaf Juice acts as a Natural Osmolyte. Unlike synthetic toners, it contains plant-native sugars and minerals that help skin cells manage water balance under stress. This makes it an ideal "Serum Primer": applying it before your active serums (like Vitamin C or Peptides) ensures the skin is evenly hydrated, which reduces the risk of "hot spots" where concentrated actives might otherwise cause stinging in dry patches.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Calendula Oil – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
To get real results, you must apply the "Lipid Buffer" principle. Calendula Oil does not "hydrate" in the traditional sense; it functions as a Hydration Retainer. It fills the microscopic gaps between dry, flaking skin cells, instantly smoothing the texture and creating a physical shield against environmental irritants.

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Coco-Glucoside – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
Coco-Glucoside is a mild, non-ionic surfactant derived from coconut oil and fruit sugars (glucose). In the world of cleansing, it is considered a "gentle workhorse" because it effectively lifts oil and debris without the aggressive protein-stripping associated with traditional sulfates. Its molecular structure allows it to create a soft, creamy foam that rinses cleanly, making it a staple in sensitive skin and baby care formulations. While it is significantly less irritating than ionic surfactants, it remains a wash-off agent; its "gentleness" is ultimately determined by the total surfactant blend and the user's cleansing technique. When used correctly—with lukewarm water and followed immediately by a moisturiser—Coco-Glucoside supports a stable skin barrier by ensuring that daily impurities are removed without triggering a cycle of dryness or "oil rebound."

Ingredient Encyclopedia

Carbomer – Benefits, Side Effects & Uses

by ThankMeNow Editors on Sep 10, 2025
As we move through 2026, Phytosphingosine has moved from a "hidden support ingredient" to a headline hero for those navigating the "Active Age." Because modern routines are often saturated with high-strength retinoids and exfoliating acids, skin frequently enters a state of "chronic micro-inflammation." Phytosphingosine is unique because it acts as a metabolic signaling molecule. Beyond just sitting on the surface like a wax, it signals to your skin cells to produce more of their own natural ceramides. Emerging data from late 2025 also suggests it plays a role in regulating the skin’s antimicrobial peptides, meaning it doesn’t just fix the barrier—it helps the skin defend itself against external pathogens and environmental stressors more effectively.